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My trip to Ghana (Part 3) - Tamale



From Yeji to Tamale

got up early in the morning are Ben and I have been going on for the port if you can call in size so ever. On the way we came across another group of German volunteers, so we decided to have breakfast with them. To continue our journey to Tamale
, we had to the other side of the Volta Lake. We have a small passenger boat taken on the approximately 30 people had space. On the crossing we had a chat with a Ghanaian, who has us worried on arrival as nice places in the bus to Tamale. This was in fact now almost full. Fortunately, most people spoke good English in the region, because in the Volta Region is no Twi or Fanti speak what is called common in the south. The Volta Region and the northwestern part of Togo (the neighbor) is dominated by the Ewe language.
The trip to Tamale was relatively relaxed. The roads were very dusty, so we usually have to leave the windows and with the travel bag between the legs we sat not very comfortable. It was one of the more pleasant trips. Here and there we saw again burning bushes by the roadside and some people went through a shower of rust flakes.
The more we approached Tamale, the better were the streets and the faster it went ahead.
Finally arrived, we were very surprised at Tamale. We had our run down and poorly presented, as the north of Ghana is a lot poorer than the south. were contrary to our expectations, there were nice houses, the roads were good and there were curbs. The traffic situation in the center was compared to Accra very quiet and orderly.
A passenger who has traveled the same route of Yeji to Tamale is help us find a hotel was. As in Akosombo we walked from hotel to hotel and the prices were more expensive, instead of cheap. The sun was burning mercilessly down on us. The further one is in the north, the hotter it gets. In the end, we have the passenger, named Rebiu to be invited and said that we can stay with him for nothing. Rebiu was only 19 years old, but his father has built a new house near the center, where we could spend the night. It was just a shell and we slept on a mattress on the floor, but all we needed. Rebiu accompanied us the rest of the day on our exploration. We have the inner city, the market and the cultural viewed. In the cultural, there was not really much to see. It is more of an artists' market for tourists. Otherwise, we talked a lot and he told us something about the Ghanaian Muslims, since he himself is one, like most people in northern Ghana. It was also interesting people gathered at certain times in courts of houses or shops (standing, bowing, kneeling and bobbing) to pray to see.
Finally, we have invited him to dinner in a Fufubar. It was actually a real fast-food restaurant, as I have not often seen in the south. In the dark we are now running through the streets of tamales. Everywhere there were small stalls and pedestrian zones were no less fully than during the day. The city had a very atmospheric nightlife and you have always felt very safe (which was of course to our Ghanaian accompaniment).

counter later in the evening provided us Rebiu his family in the old house before. You have to say it was an extended family. We met the parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins and a dozen children. Since we have all these people were a little too much, Rebiu brought us into his room. It was relatively comfortable, had a mattress next to another bed. He was even holding a small black and white television on which he had run a DVD with hip hop music videos. Against later his cousin past and made us company. She was just visiting there, because she studied in Washington (city in northwestern Ghana). You could tell her immediately that she studies, for they spoke very good English. At first we were a little confused, because it was us when his wife presented (eng wife). As it turned out, the cousin in the culture as a "wife" is called. Her name was Rebiu. Wait a minute, said he is not so! But, also ... they are both called the same - even more confused! The family is not typical, Ghana Muslim family. They have a Nigerian immigrant and are members of the Hussars. As we Rebiu, so the woman said she was married to her for 23 years before been. This made us somewhat puzzled and she moved out after a while that it was then forced to marry at 14 - and a 35-year-old. When she was 18, she has a divorce, which had serious consequences. She was banned from one side of her family and disinherited. Free from constraints, it has made up the senior high school and started studying it. This is for a Muslim woman in these countries is very exceptional.

The body shop, where we stayed was, although mosquito-free since we have turned on mosquito incense, but quite warm at night. The mattress was indeed broad, but still a bit tight for three people. The next Day was really just the fact of waiting for the bus to Larrabanga. Like so many times when you held out for hours with the saying "any moment from now" (~ every moment from now) ...

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PICTURES: From Yeji to Tamale
PICTURES: Tamale

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My round trip to Ghana (Part 2) - Volta tour

From Akosombo on Lake Volta to Yeji:

arrived in Akosombo, we went from hotel to hotel, in the To get a better hope the next room. We had to find that the price of accommodation in this city on average was four times as high as in smaller towns. Akosombo is a richer city, influenced by the dam, the Lake Volta is. The Lake Volta is the largest reservoir in West Africa and is responsible for almost the entire power supply in Ghana. For this reason, the roads to western standards and even have a sidewalk. In the entrances of the residential areas are beautiful cars and trash on the roadside are a rarity. The next day we have
killed at the landing time, until the barriers flying off at last and we were able to ferry. Before we were allowed on board, a dozen men have made the military on the upper deck of the ferry place. Each was armed with a heavy assault rifle. As I found out later in the interview, they were in no serious mission. The ferry was in very good condition and had a first, second and third grade. We were allowed to the military on the upper deck, in the first grade, friend, what it meant for us anyway, to sleep on the floor. The second class was on the lower deck. There, the passengers had to get in a lounge on benches, a place to sleep. Most slept half sitting up. The third class was in the back outside. There were large wooden boxes next to the charge, in which they considered the passengers to sleep.
top in first grade, it was relatively quiet. The soldiers were nice and have a conversation with one. Funnily enough, was also at the same time, with the same ferry is Friend of ours on the road. This friend, named Ollie, is on your own here in Ghana. He met by chance in Germany someone in Ghana is building a hotel there and he can practically give other accommodation. He used this chance. The ferry ride was one of his recent trips to Ghana, before he returned to Germany. He is almost at the same time as we arrived volunteers, so he was half a year here.
Just before the dawn rode the ferry going at last. Since we had established at the rear of the deck, the engine noise was relatively noisy. But it was no problem to talk. At the departure point was the Lake Volta narrow and could the other side look good. The further we drove, the worse was the view. The Harmattan could all vanish in the haze. We saw a few fishermen with small boats cross the lake before it was finally dark. For an hour or two left to burn on the deck still light it and follow it was very dark and it was as it were forced to sleep. The banks were now far away and you could only see the lights of the lighthouses and the occasional fire in the woods.
The next morning we were woken by the sun's first rays. Shortly after we had the first of several intermediate stops. There were goods loaded and unloaded, got some added, others left the ferry. From then on there it about every two hours a stopover. The farther north we got, the drier, the countryside and the poorer places on the shore. The soldiers had already left us now and there was plenty of deck space. Some passengers came up, something to grab air and a few Muslims to pray on a carpet to Allah.
Up front on the deck could be seen from above the action in the third grade. In a corner just below the upper deck was a secluded place where retired people who wanted to silence her. Of course they have not noticed that people look down from above. Some have taken to smoking, others wanted to share secrets and talk undisturbed and once came a mother and her child has had to make in the corner (because the toilet was probably busy). The whole seemed like a theater on a grand scale before and has contributed a lot added to the atmosphere on the ship. After another beautiful sunset in the evening we arrived in Yeji. The navigation on the pier was one of the highlights of this Reise.Wir have been looking locally for a cheap hotel, and soon found one. The price was average but the room was very run down. It was probably the shabby hotel room of our trip. For one night it was unbearable. The next day we went to Tamale, the capital of the north.
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Images: Akosombo and Volta Tour (1 / 2)
Images: Volta Tour (2 / 2)